There is a kind of flame in Crete – let us call it “soul” – something more powerful than either life or death. There is pride, obstinacy, valor, and together with these something else inexpressible and imponderable, something which makes you rejoice that you are a human being, and at the same time tremble.

–Nikos Kazantzakis

March 2023

After a grand tour of the Cyclades, I arrive in Crete with much excitement and anticipation, remembering the wild beauty of the island, hiking through the magnificent Samaria Gorge before plunging into the Aegean Sea during my maiden voyage to Greece. The weather in the southernmost island is markedly warmer and I spend ten blissful days hiking in spectacular nature, roaming around Venetian cities, and basking in gorgeous sandy beaches. Suddenly, winter turns to early spring with all the Cretan flavours coming to full fore.

From Chania, the gorgeous former capital, I head down south to the pink beach of Elafonisi before making my way to Stavros, visiting the ancient monasteries in the region. Moving east, I stop in Rethymno to visit the charming old town and then visit my pal, Winfried, volunteering at a healing center near Souda beach. If Heraklion may not be the city of choice, the Palace of Knossos is a must-see. I end my stay hiking in the south, visiting the hippie cave beach of Matala and the Faistos Palace before taking a bus to Siti where the next ferry takes me to the Dodecanese.

Crete has it all!

A cosmos within the Greek universe, Crete is imbued with so much beauty and mythology that a lifetime cannot exhaust. The largest and southern most island in Greece, it has it all. Snow capped mountains and lush valleys, dramatic gorges and tantalizing beaches, rustic villages and beautiful cities. I begin my tour with the charming former capital of Chania, famous for her old Venetian port, iconic Egyptian lighthouse, and a maze of alleys radiating from the Old Town lined with an ancient fortress, elegant mansions, and bustling seaside taverns. Built on the ancient site of Minoan Kidonia (3000BC), Chania is layered with millennia-old history from antique jars to palatial frescos, fragments of Linear A – a 4000-year-old writing system used by Crete Minoans that no one has yet managed to decipher- to tablets of Linear B, the earliest form of the Greek language, used for book-keeping of busy trading of wool, sheep, and grain. But first thing first: I head to Bougatsa Chania, a household name for the Cretan breakfast feature of pastry of semolina custard and flavourful cheese. Life is so sweet in Crete!

Elafonisi and the Akrotiri Monasteries

With a few fellow travellers, we drive down south to the pink beach of Elafonisi, passing through idyllic countryside and quaint villages. Except for a lone kitesurfer, we have the entire breathtaking sandbar to ourselves, the best of Cretan gifts! Then we veer up North in the Akrotiri Peninsula famous for old monasteries set in olive groves and cypress trees. Following a steep footpath from the Gouverneto Monastery, we reach a cave chapel before descending into the impressive cliffside Katholikon, Crete’s oldest monastery from the 11th century. The plan is to reach the seaside village of Stavros immortalized by the dancing scene in Zorba the Greek, the 1964 classic by Michael Cacoyannis. Alas, we linger too long and arrive at dusk, but the full moon is rising and we can hear some faint music flowing…

Rethymno Old Town

There is still so much more to explore in this mother island of all. I spend a glorious morning checking out every nook and cranny of the exquisite Venetian city of Rethymno. From the Quora Gate, the old main entrance to the walled city leads one to the bustling central square where all the historic buildings are on proud display: the Rimondi Fountain, the Loggia, the Clock tower, and the Neratze Mosque. The lighthouse and Venetian harbour here might be small but the old town alleys filled with flowers, lanterns, and pastel coloured doors are no less picturesque. Throw in a midday shadow and a local passerby, Rethymno is just as picture perfect!

Spiritual Living on Crete

From Rethymno, I take an hour-long bus down south to Plakias to visit my friend, Winfried, who is volunteering at a healing center near Souda created by Peter, a visionary tantra teacher. For three blessed days, I enjoy their joyful company, wholesome home cooked meals, magnificent nature in the shadow of snow-capped Mt. Ida, and soulful music by Moritz. Ah, the zenith of spiritual living in Crete!

Storm in Heraklion

Time to say goodbye and I make my way east to Heraklion, Crete’s largest city. A storm is brewing and the Venetian harbour and fortress look menacing. I walk along the old city walls before a downpour and venture out to the famous Knossos Palace, the oldest city in Europe and the capital of Minoan Crete filled with intriguing myths. I marvel at the scale and beauty of the reconstructed masterpiece from 1900BC before examining in greater details the magnificent frescos of Prince of lilies, ladies in blue, and a leaping bull at the remarkable archaeological museum holding the world’s treasures in Minoan art.

Hippie Cave Beach of Matala and Faistos Palace

I spend my last day in Crete with Masaya, a fellow traveler from Japan, taking the 7am bus to the deserted iconic hippie cave beach of Matala. We hike north, passing the long black sand beach of Kalamaki before turning inland towards the sleepy villages o Pitsidia and Kamilari. Chancing upon an ancient tholo tomb along the way, we almost miss the Faistos Palace before closing. What sheer bliss to munch a cheese sandwich amidst 4000-year-old ruins from the Minoan times. A day in Crete can feel magically like a century!

A Cretan Goodbye

The Wednesday ferry departs from Sitia, so I hop on the first morning bus, enjoying a bonus view of Crete’s scenic northern coast. Having a few hours to kill, I decide to explore the small, pleasant city and meet two French expat residents – Monique and Jose – who live by the harbour corner. They incarnate Cretan hospitality and treat me to their homemade raki and lemonade before sitting down for a long French lunch of peas and bacon garnished with local herbs. The Prevelis is still far, at least two hours more! Jose says, checking at marintraffic.com when we are finally onto cheese. Then suddenly my ferry materializes out of the bay and I make a beeline to the port after a hasty French goodbye kiss. The captain is having a hard time to moor, the wind so strong and the waves so big, and my kind hosts return to check on me. What endearing Crete, so hard to leave!

This is part of a six-blog series on my three-month journey through Greece and the Aegean Sea.

Part I: Northern Greece

Part II: Athens and the Saronic Islands

Part III: True Greek Blue: The Cyclades

Next, Part V: The Dodecanese!

Part VI: Farewell to the Aegean: Ikaria and Samos