Sky and sea blue-blue-blue… When I realized that every morning I would see that light again, I couldn’t believe how happy I was. I decided not to leave Nice.
– Matisse
August 2026
Like Marseille, I have no particular reason to revisit Nice, except that it is right by Monaco as part of my 193 project to visit all countries in the world. Again, a delicious meal I shared with my sister in Nice by the sea in my maiden backpacking trip to Europe in long gone uni days is all I recall. Actually no, I do remember the Promenade des Anglais. How can one not? But beyond that, the hues are fuzzy.
For a four-day stay, my program is busy. Day one: from Menton to Monaco, Eze, and St. Jean Cap Ferrat! Day two: museum day. Day three: Cannes and Antibes. Last day: the historic old town of Nice. It is the height of summer with a heat wave, not my preferred season to travel to compete with holidaymakers. But I want to reach Central Asia before it gets cold. Zero complaint to be in the French Rivera in August! I have forgotten how nice Nice is: the beaches and sea breeze, the meandering streets of old town, the panoramic view from the Hill, the light and color, and the entire Cote d’Azur where the sky kisses the sea. Nothing short of edenic, at least for my brief stay…
The hour-long bus ride from Nice to Menton must be one of the most scenic in the world (sit on the right side!). Dramatic Mediterranean seascapes and sandy shores, picturesque coastal towns and terracotta rooftops, citadels and old towns, century-old villas and luxury mega-yachts. I ride to the end of the line, getting off in Menton, the “Pearl of the French Riviera,” famous for pastel-colored architecture and sweet lemons. It is Saturday market day. A leisurely morning stroll passes through casinos, the beach, and Musee Cocteau (unfortunately closed) before snaking its way up the Saint Michel Basilica and coming back to old town where one is rewarded with a classic tarte Mentaise…
Monaco is next. A few days prior to my arrival, my sister actually reminded me of our side trip there including the casino all those years ago. Oh well, since I am here. The second smallest country in the world requires no more than a few hours to visit. From the famous Monte Carlo Casino and Opera where legendary singers like Enrico Caruso, Plácido Domingo, and Luciano Pavarotti as well as the Ballets Russes premiered, I walk up towards the old city where the Palace is, passing through the port quarter of Condamine, before descending into the Fontvieille harbour. Monaco might be small, but is packed with things to do, whether you are a fan of the Grand Prix – with the famous hairpin turn – Princess Grace Kelly, or simply want to catch glimpses of the giga yachts. On my way back to Nice, I make a pit stop in Eze village to visit the famous Fragonard Perfume and then the idyllic town of St Jean Cap Ferrat. A walk by the coastal trail would have been great, but next time!
So many artists have been attracted by the Cote d’Azur and leave their mark. What joy to admire the dream-like paintings of Marc Chagall noted for floating angels and lovers, mixing Cubism and Fauvism to create some of the most iconic artwork of the last century. From there, I walk up the affluent neighbourhood Cimiez to check out the exhibition of Matisse and Yves Saint Laurent, joined by their use of color and patterns, breaking lines between fine and applied arts.
There are still Cannes and Antibes to visit, both within short bus/train rides from Nice. Cannes’ old town takes its name from the Rue du Suquet with narrow lanes winding uphill to the iconic Our Lady of Hope Church, offering a breathtaking view of the entire port. From the waterfront corniche, one strolls along the Boulevard de la Croisette lined with grand hotels and prominent villas, feeling like a Hollywood star, without missing the unique photo op on the famous red carpet of the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès. Then I spend the afternoon in the historic old town of Antibes, walking along the 16th-century ramparts with the Le Fort Carré in the background. I imagine a hike along the scenic Cap d’Antibes, but not under the intense heat. Tourists flock to the beaches instead.
Finally, a relaxing day exploring Nice. From the meandering streets of old town, I reach the hill with sprawling views of the Bay of Angels before descending to Cours Saleya for a classic lunch of mussels and fries. Nice used to be part of Italy with so many photogenic squares and parks with Italianate architecture. My feet are sore with days of walking and a refreshing late afternoon dip in the sea is heavenly. As the saying goes, salty air, sandy hair, and Côte d’Azur flair!
This is part of my P193 project with the goal of visiting all countries in the world, beginning with Europe and Central Asia, bringing the current country count to 128!
Liechtenstein: Small is Beautiful
Kazakstan
Turkmenistan
Uzbekistan
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