Everybody giggles in the same old language,
Everybody whimpers in the same old tongue.
– Grigore Vieru, In Your Language
August 2026
Who said Chisinau is the ugliest capital in Europe? Arriving in Moldova with no expectation is a blessing. At 11pm, on board the #30 non-express bus from the airport towards the city centre, I see handsome stately buildings and a bustling night life. After some hectic travels from Andorra to Liechtenstein via the French Rivera and a gruelling border crossing into Belarus, I have come to chill in Moldova, the last country to visit in Europe! I spend a day in the monasteries in Orhei Vechi and another in the breakaway republic of Transnistria. The rest of the time is just relaxing in Chisinau to enjoy both the brutalist architecture and dolce vita in the ultra slow-paced capital city.
The 2,000-year old ruins in Old Orhei are a top attraction in Moldova. From Chisinau, a short 90-minute minibus ride takes one directly to Butuceni set in bucolic country. The views from the Pestera cave monastery over the winding river valley are breathtaking. Travellers with their own transport often continue on to the nearby Curchi Monastery or head to a local winery. Instead of waiting for the 3pm return mashrutka to Chisinau, I hitch a ride to the Orhei junction and get back to the capital at noon, leaving me plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely afternoon in the city.
Known as one of Europe’s greenest capitals, Chisinau surprises foreign visitors with her mix of old world charm and modern vibes. Locals enjoy coffee or a cold summer drink in one of the many leafy parks or stroll along the bustling Ștefan cel Mare street for shopping. From the Central Park, most sites are within walking distance: the Nativity Cathedral, Triumphal Arch (to commemorate Russia‘s victory against the Ottomans at the beginning of the 19th century), the City Hall, Organ Hall, National Theatre, Opera House, History Museum, Presidential Palace, and the National Museum of Arts. For a photograher, Chisinau is a total gem, offering a mix of Soviet aesthetics and 19th-century classical elegance in her architectural landscapes. Then there are the world-famous wineries and mouth-watering Moldovan cuisine with signature plăcinte (pastries), sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), mămăligă (cornmeal polenta), dumplings, and the must-try sour cherry pancake with high-fat sour cream!
It’s time to make a day trip to Transnistria. Mostly inhabited by pro-Russian people who did not want to belong to pro-Romanian Moldova, it is an unrecognized breakaway country within Moldova. Bender is home to a few war memorials and an impressive fortress while the capital, Tiraspol, feels like a Soviet time capsule. The colourful House of the Soviets as well as the massive Presidential Palace with a Lenin statue are prime architectural examples of a bygone era.
There is still so much to explore in Chisinau. From the bus station, I walk towards the iconic Hotel Chisinau and the gigantic Liberation Sculptural Composition. Then onwards to the Chisinau train station – completely destroyed in 1944 – as a prominent landmark of post-war Stalinist Empire style, featuring socialist-realist symbols blended with traditional Moldovan iconography. It’s Saturday salsa night. Domenico who drove all the way from Salerno, Italy and I decide to brave the dance hall. Still crazy after all…!
In my last afternoon, I follow the suggestion of Humberto, a retired teacher and writer from Portugal, to go mosaic hunting. Many decaying large-scale Soviet-era mosaics can be spotted throughout the country and region. From Strada 31 August, I take a leisurely stroll towards the sprawling Rose Valley Park where locals enjoy a perfect summer outing. Alas, the Plowman of the Cosmos mosaic is now hidden in view from the bu, but the Dance of the Muses (circa 1965) on the facade of the abandoned summer theatre is a perfect example of Soviet modernist public art in dereliction.
Moldova concludes my travels throughout Europe (yeah!) as part of my P193 project to visit all countries in the world. Central Asia is next, bringing the country count to 128!
Liechtenstein: Small is Beautiful
Kazakstan
Turkmenistan
Uzbekistan
All Content © 2026 by Jennifer Chan
Jennifer Chan Photography 